![]() ![]() Photograph by Zachary Zavislak for The New Yorker To-go orders won’t bring in enough revenue to even cover the labor it requires to fulfill them, but they’re a way to use up inventory and to feed the neighborhood. But by the time Wilson, a telegenic former investment banker, took over, in 2010, it had fallen into decline. Tang’s uncle Wally started working there in 1950, as a sixteen-year-old Chinese immigrant, and bought it in 1974. “#Supportchinatown.” This wasn’t the first time the fate of the restaurant had been uncertain. “There is no coronavirus bs here,” Tang captioned a post in February. ![]() The persistence of the crowd was likely due to the media savvy of Wilson Tang, Nom Wah’s forty-one-year-old proprietor, who had been drumming up attention on Instagram. But I was there just as the COVID-19 pandemic was taking over the news, and Sinophobic paranoia was threatening Chinatown businesses across the country. Situated on Doyers Street-a boomerang-shaped block once known as the Bloody Angle, for its history of gang killings-the dim-sum parlor is one of the neighborhood’s most popular destinations, especially among tourists, who line up for dumplings and “OG” eggrolls. A decade ago, Wilson Tang took over the original Nom Wah location from his uncle Wally in the past four years, he has opened multiple outposts, including the one in Nolita and three in Shenzhen, China. ![]()
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